A cumin chipotle rub adds a base note to these succulent ribs, the perfect counterpoint to the ginger-soy barbecue sauce. Utensils are superfluous- by all means, eat with your hands.

SERVES 4–ACTIVE TIME 1 hour–Start to finish 5 1/2 hr

• 2 tbsp packed dark brown sugar
•  1 1/2 tbsp paprika (not hot)
• 1  1/2 tsp chipotle chile powder
• 1  1/2 tsp ground cumin
• 1 tsp ground allspice
• 2  (2-lb) racks baby back ribs
• 3 cups barbecue mop (at right)

1. Whisk together brown sugar, spices,1 1/2 tsp salt, and 1/2 tsp black pepper in a small bowl.
2. Line an 18-by-13-by-1-inch heavy duty baking sheet with a double layer of foil,then oil foil.
3. Arrange ribs in pan and rub all over with spice mixture. Marinate, meaty sides up, covered and chilled, 2 1/2 hours.
4. Bring ribs to room temperature, about 30 minutes.
5. Put oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 350*F.
6. Cover pan tightly with foil; bake 1  1/2 hours. Remove foil.
7. Prepare grill for cooking over indirect heat with medium hot charcoal (medium heat for gas).
8. Lightly oil grill rack, then transfers ribs to area of rack with no coals underneath, reserving pan juices, and cook, covered with lid, basting generously with pan juices and barbecue mop and turning over and rotating ribs every 10 minutes (over indirect heat), until tender and browned, 30 to 40 minutes total. Transfer ribs to a cutting board and let stand 5 minutes befire cutting into individual ribs. Serve with remaining barbecue mop.

SAUCE

GINGER SOY TOMATO BARBECUE MOP

cook 1 1/2 cups chopped onion, 6 finely chopped garlic cloves, and 1  1/2 tbsp finely chopped peeled ginger in 2 tbsp vegetable oil in a 2 qt heavy saucepan over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 6 minutes.

Add 1 1/2 cups ketchup, 1/2 cup cider vinegar, 6 tbsp soy sauce, 1/2 cup water, 1/4 cup packed dark brown sugar, 1  1/2 tsp salt, and  3/4 tsp black pepper and simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, 15 minutes.

Puree sauce in 2 or 3 batches in a blender until smooth. Set aside 1 cup sauce for serving with ribs. Makes 3 cups;