Chicken thighs are great for the grill because they tend to stay juicy. An added bonus: Their unevenness creates little depressions that hold onto sauces and rubs

SERVES 4 TO 6

2 tbsp Chinese five spice powder

1 tbsp plus 1 tsp dark brown sugar

1 tsp garlic powder

Kosher salt

2 tbsp soy sauce

2 tsp rice vinegar

1 tsp Asian sesame oil

1/4 tsp crushed red pepper flakes

2  1/2 lb boneless,skinless chicken thighs (about 8 large, 10 medium, or 12 small), trimmed of excess fat

2 tbsp vegetable oil;more for the grill

3 tbsp chopped cilantro

In a small bowl,mix the five spice powder, 1 tbsp of the brown sugar, the garlic powder, and 3/4 tsp salt. In another bowl, mix the soy sauce, vinegar, sesame oil, red pepper flakes, and the remaining 1 tsp brown sugar.

Put the chicken in a shallow pan, drizzle with the vegetable oil, and toss to coat to evenly.Sprinkle the spice mixture over the chicken; toss and rub to coat thproughly.

Prepare a hot charcoal fire or heat agas grill with all burners on medium high for 10 minutes. Clean the hot grate with a wire brush and then lubricate it with an oil- soaked paper towel. Put the chicken on the grate and grilluntil one side has dark grill marks, 5 to 6 minutes for a large thighs or 4 to 5 for a medium and small thighs.Turn and continue to grill until well marked  on the other sides and cooked through.

Transfer the thighs to a serving dish. Drizzle with about half of the soy mixture, sprinkle with the cilantro, and toss to coat. Let rest 4 to 5  minutes, tossing once or twice. Serve hot, war, or at room temperature, with the remaining soy mixture passed on the table.